Discover Quadrello di Bufala

Based on the Taleggio recipe, Quadrello di Bufala is wonderfully creamy and sweet, with a slight tang in the finish. Made with Mediterranean Buffalo milk, this refined take on a beloved classic will be sure to please.

Image source: Caseificio Quattro Portoni.

In an expanse of the Lombardy region, reaching to the Serio River, Quattro Portoni Caseificio is making buffalo milk Taleggio. Mediterranean Water Buffalo (or bufala in Italian) is much sought after, but hard to produce. Quattro Portoni is a farmstead operation- they tend a herd of about 1,000 buffalo to make their cheeses.

In Italy, local is not a new or novel concept- it is an expected, standard part of life. Go to the market and head to the deli counter in an Italian town and most of what you’ll see was produced in a 50 mile radius, most likely less than that. The food ecosystem in Italy is comprised of many, many microcosms that take fierce pride in tradition.

When this comes to cheese, the same principles apply. In part because of PDO requirements for a given cheese, climate and terrain differences which can significantly alter the production and final product and regional taste preferences.

So in the early 2000s, when Alfio and Bruno Gritti wanted to make a cheese that would stand out in the Lombardy region, they went in an unforeseen direction. They chose to work with buffalo milk, even though it is traditionally used to make mozzarella in southern parts of Italy.

Water buffalo are notoriously difficult milk producers; they are extremely sensitive, needing the exact right environment and conditions to make milk. Mediterranean Water Buffalo

(not related to the American Bison) produce a lot less milk than cows and require more attention, but their yield is higher. This means buffalo milk is more nutrient dense, with twice as much fat and more protein per gram than cow’s milk. Ultimately, buffalo milk produces a creamier, more flavorful cheese because the solid content is much higher.

Relocating them and getting a steady supply of milk to produce cheese is no easy feat, but the Gritti brothers are well suited to the task. Alfio and Bruno grew up on the farm and studied Veterinary Medicine and agronomic land management, respectively. They continue the farm tradition, cultivating the fodder used to feed their herd of approximately 1000 buffalo themselves.

Image source: Caseificio Quattro Portoni.

The challenge is worth it when you taste Quadrello di Bufala. It is sweet and milky, with aromas of mushroom. There is a notable tanginess in the finish, with a richness from the buffalo milk and the saltiness of a washed rind cheese.

Use Quadrello to make a traditional, northern Italian-style polenta. Cut the rind off of the cheese

and add it in chunks to give a meatiness and creamy finish to the rice dish.