The Century-Old Italian Restaurant Where Scoring a Table Is Basically Winning the Lottery
- Madison
- Jun 2
- 3 min read
If you’ve ever grabbed a jar of Rao’s marinara at the grocery store and thought, “Wow, this sauce is really good,” you’re not alone. But what you may not realize is that this beloved sauce traces its roots back to one of the most elusive—and iconic—restaurants in New York City. Nestled in Harlem, Rao’s has been a fixture since 1896, serving old-school Italian-American fare long before red sauce joints became trendy again.
But here’s the kicker: you probably won’t get in.
Let us explain.
The “Table Rights” That Keep You Out
Rao’s doesn’t play by the usual restaurant rules. In fact, it’s basically its own institution. In the late 1970s, a glowing review catapulted the tiny, 10-table restaurant into the culinary stratosphere. The demand for reservations exploded—and Rao’s did something very New York about it: they gave regulars permanent dibs. Literally.
Dubbed “table rights,” this system essentially assigns tables to long-time diners—some families have had theirs for decades. These loyal guests can show up whenever they like or, occasionally, gift their spot to someone else (if you’re really lucky, you might even land one through a charity auction). But for everyone else? You’ll need an inside connection, a serious dose of charisma, or maybe divine intervention.
And no, calling for a reservation won’t help. There’s no OpenTable link. No waitlist. Just... hope.
No Menu. No Problem.
If you’re imagining a stuffy, white-tablecloth affair with a mile-long wine list, think again. Rao’s leans all the way into warmth and familiarity. In fact, there are no menus. Instead, co-owner Frank Pellegrino Jr. personally chats with guests about their likes, dislikes, and allergies—then recommends dishes on the spot. It’s more like dinner at a friend’s Nonna’s house than a night out in Manhattan.
“It’s all about family and gathering,” Pellegrino told Mashed in an exclusive interview. And honestly, that vibe is exactly what makes Rao’s so magnetic.
Is the Food Really That Good?
Here’s where it gets a little complicated.
By all accounts, the food is solid—rich, nostalgic, and homey. Think meatballs the size of your fist and lemon chicken so good it should be illegal. But is it revolutionary? That depends on who you ask.
Some lucky diners say the flavors are unbeatable. Others on Reddit have admitted that while it’s good, there are less exclusive Italian spots in NYC with comparable dishes—without the velvet rope vibe. One commenter even compared it to “a slightly better Carmine’s,” which, depending on your taste, might be praise or a polite drag.
A Bar Scene Like No Other
Want to try your luck anyway? Rao’s does technically allow walk-ins—mostly at the bar. But be warned: the bar has its own unspoken rules. For starters, you don’t give your name when opening a tab. Payment happens at the end. And the crowd? It’s a charismatic mix of longtime locals and loyal regulars. The vibe channels old New York charm—equal parts timeless neighborhood hangout and culinary icon.
Can’t Get In? There’s Always L.A.
If your Rao’s dreams are big but your NYC connections are small, consider hopping a flight to the West Coast. Rao’s has a more accessible outpost in Los Angeles—same red sauce charm, a little less mystery. No table rights there. Just good food and a chance to say you’ve experienced a little slice of Rao’s magic.
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Rao’s is a living relic of New York history that’s managed to stay exclusive without becoming elitist. Whether the hype matches the food might depend on your expectations. But if you ever find yourself at one of those ten tables, know that you’re not just eating dinner—you’re stepping into a culinary time capsule that’s been sealed with love (and probably some garlic) since 1896.
And until then? There’s always the sauce.
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